With chic bars, restaurants and unspoilt beaches, Ilha Grande is an ideal escape from the hectic metropolis of Rio de Janeiro. Just 2.5 hours away on the bus is Angra dos Reis, a town with the country’s busiest ferry port. In addition to being a transport hub for oil, the port also ships eager visitors to Ilha Grande (big island) – 80,000 hectares of forest-covered mountains fringed with stunning beaches and teeming with chic bars, restaurants and boutique hotels.
After a 90 minute chug on the ferry, we land at Abraão, the Island’s main town. It’s bigger than I had imagined, with a bustling main street stretching along the shoreline and a busy network of dirt roads behind, creeping their way towards the looming, mist-covered mountains. I baulk as I hear pre-recorded ‘Big Ben’ chimes mark the hour from the quaint local church. It’s the first thing you see when you land on the island and as someone who had spent the previous six months working in Westminster, it’s strange to have each hour punctuated by the chimes I’d come to associate with the gloom and drizzle of London.
What makes Ilha Grande special?
There are no cars allowed on Ilha Grande, except for one garbage truck, a fire engine and a police vehicle. Anything heavy is transported by clunky old buggies pushed by running groups of fit, shirtless men. It certainly makes the passing traffic a lot more interesting to look at.
During the day, there are boat tours to the island’s various beaches. For active visitors there are plenty of hiking trails through the forest. The walk to Cachoeira da Feiticeira is a tourist favourite – the two hour round trip rewards walkers with a refreshing dip in a forest waterfall. There’s a natural swimming pool on the way too, along with the historic ruins of the Quarantine Hospital, which was once a jail for political prisoners.
A few days on Ilha Grande is enough to recharge your batteries. The internet access can be patchy here – when we visited there was no internet for almost a week. But sometimes a little digital detox is just what the doctor ordered. Keep this in mind before you decide to come here. Even if your hotel says it has Wi-Fi, they are sometimes at the mercy of services going up and down.
Also, please note that there are no banks or ATMs on the island, so you will need to ensure you bring enough cash with you. You may be able to negotiate a discount with your pousada if you pay in cash – simply ask them. Many businesses accept credit cards on the island.
Where to eat in Ilha Grande?
Here, eating and drinking become an indulgent way to mark the easy passage of time. Lazy afternoon strolls spent perusing menus soon became a favourite part of your daily routine.
Cafe do Mar is a highlight – it’s just a short walk along the main shoreline of Praia do Canto. With candles in the trees, we kick back with our feet in the sand as the waves lap so close, they almost touch us. With one eye on our food, and one eye on the ocean, we sip our caipirinhas and soak up the music drifting across the bay. The staff speak English, their food and cocktails are excellent and the location is one of the best on the island – it’s quiet, intimate and romantic.
In fact, there are loads of great bars and restaurants down the far end of the beach, a little walk away from the heart of the town. You pay a little more to eat right by the sea, but it’s worth every penny.
How to get to Ilha Grande?
As the name suggests, Ilha Grande is an island, and therefore, you’ll need to take a ferry or a boat to get there. The island is car free, so if you are driving, you need to leave your vehicle on the mainland. Here’s a list of carparks where you can leave your car.
There are three ports which will take you to Ilha Grande – the main one being Angra dos Reis, but there is also Mangaratiba and Conceição de Jacarei. If you are going to Vila do Abraão, which is Ilha Grande’s main village, we recommend you take a ferry from Angra dos Reis – it’s slow, but scenic! Please refer to this site for more information on arriving by boat.
By car – from Rio de Janeiro
Drive to Angra dos Reis, which is around 2.5 hours’ drive southwest of Rio. Then take the 1.5 hour ferry journey across to Vila do Abraão.
By bus – from Rio de Janeiro
Take the Costa Verde bus from Novo Rio Rodoviária (bus station) in Rio de Janeiro to Angra dos Reis. Buses go regularly between 4am and 9pm. One way is R$69.49. Then take the ferry boat across to Ilha Grande.
By van – from Rio de Janeiro
Green Toad is a well known company which manage door-to-door transfers for groups. Staff speak English.
Last updated: 25 Nov, 2023