Sugarloaf Mountain view, Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro (city)

Some relationships come easily, others take a little more work. That’s how I feel about Rio de Janeiro. It’s not always an easy city to love, but it’s so damn beautiful, one cannot help but try. While Rio de Janeiro does have a reputation as a dangerous metropolis, such thoughts quickly evaporate when you’re standing in gorgeous sunshine on top of Sugarloaf Mountain, surrounded by bright blue sea, gleaming high-rise towers, the world’s largest urban rainforest and stunning stretches of beach.


What makes Rio de Janeiro special?

Rio is where Brazil’s many worlds collide – beautiful meets ugly, the urban bleeds into the jungle, the haves swim with the have nots. As sunlight bounces off high-rise towers, favelas drip down the hills and almost tumble into the sea. These shanty towns are a constant reminder of the daily struggle of some Cariocas. From a distance the chaos of the favelas can be strangely beautiful, particularly when they twinkle like stars at night. Favelas are not so much scars as wounds, still raw, still healing. And they are a reality of daily life for many Brazilians.

 


Top things to do in Rio de Janeiro

The best way to appreciate Rio’s beauty is from up high. Pão de Açúgar (Sugarloaf Mountain) and Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) both provide incredible sweeping views across the city and beyond. Christ is higher, so high in fact that he’s often swathed in cloud. The views are at their most intoxicating at sunset. If Sugarloaf’s cable cars or Christ’s cog trains aren’t exciting enough for you, you can always rock climb your way to the top!

For the daredevils, another way of getting a great view is by flying over the city in a hang glider. 23,000 brave souls see Rio this way every year. Flights begin at Pedra Bonita, a rocky outcrop 2,283 feet above the city. Depending on the weather you could be in the air anywhere from 8 to 20 minutes before landing on the soft sands of São Conrado Beach. Soaring above swimming pools and makeshift shanty houses, Rio’s class distinctions become abundantly clear.

As sun sets, there really is nothing better than kicking back with a caipirinha at one of the many kiosks on Ipanema or Copacabana beach. They’re surprisingly cheap, the drinks are strong and there are plenty of sexy Brazilians to gaze at.

 


Our favourite neighbourhoods in Rio de Janeiro

Ipanema – by far our favourite part of town. The beach is vibrant and wonderful, there’s plenty of juice bars, cafes and restaurants. The streets are leafy and buzzing, and there are plenty of unique shops to explore.

Copacabana – a little more touristy, but brilliant for people watching. Take a seat in one of the beach kiosks, order a beer or a caipirinha and watch the world go by.

Escadaria Selarón, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Lapa – Famous for its white Roman-style aqueduct, and the colourful Escadaria Selarón staircase (above), this grungy area is famous for its nightlife, which features bars, live music clubs and samba street parties.

Leblon – the posh end of the beach, a trendy, upscale neighbourhood with leafy streets and plenty of excellent choices for al fresco dining.

The 'bonde' trundles along the steep streets of Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa – the tram (above, also known as the ‘bonde’) runs from Lapa and is a fun way to explore this bohemian neighbourhood, with its grand mansions, grungy bars and restaurants. We recommend grabbing a meal at Aprazível. This outdoor eatery offers sweeping views over downtown Rio and feels like you’re dining in a five-star treehouse.

 


Where is Rio de Janeiro?

 


A perfect jumping off point for…

  • Búzios: jump on a bus and head east to Búzios for a few days for a much more tranquil, relaxed experience by the beach
  • Costa Verde: or the green coast, is west of Rio, in the opposite direction from Búzios. After a couple of hours, you’ll come to Angra dos Reis, where we recommend taking a boat over to Ilha Grande for a few days of swimming, hiking, wining and dining. When you’re ready, move further along the coast to historic Paraty, with its cobblestoned streets and charming, whitewashed houses.

 


Staying safe in Rio de Janeiro

Rio is an amazing place to visit, but the city is not without its problems. Don’t let that scare you off – just be a bit street smart and you’ll be fine. Here are some tips to keep you safe:

  • Dress down – do as the locals do – avoid expensive clothes and accessories. Don’t carry a bag. Consider using a disposable camera. Leave the iPhone at the hotel.
  • Don’t use cash machines on the street or after dark. Only carry the cash you think you’ll need for the day. Make use of hotel safes.
  • After dark take taxis, don’t walk on the beach and follow your instincts. Download Uber to your phone.
  • Ask your hotel concierge about local tips and areas to avoid. Don’t take valuables to the beach.
  • If you are robbed, slowly hand over your goods without reacting. Report any crimes to the tourist police.

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Last updated: 25 Nov, 2023

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