Superb food, unique natural wonders and an enchanting, relaxed lifestyle, there’s plenty to love about the charming Brazilian village of Boipeba, Bahia.
What makes Boipeba special?
The bustling laneways of Morro de São Paulo are but a distant memory as our speedboat glides along mangrove-lined waterways, bound for the laid-back island of Boipeba. To our right, the sleepy village of Cairu hurtles by, famous for its 17th-century church and convent of Santo Antônio. Soon, our boat makes a welcome pit stop at a floating seafood shack. A ramshackle wooden deck floats on rusting oil drums. Punters fill the tables, leisurely lunching on fresh lobster, crabs and oysters, all washed down with plenty of chilled beer and caipirinhas with a kick. A delicious, sun-drenched meal in a eatery surrounded by nature, bobbing on the water – it’s one of life’s simple pleasures. I am soon to discover that this is what Boipeba does best.
By the late afternoon our boat arrives at Boipeba’s Boca da Barra beach. This strip of coastline, dotted with palm trees and restaurants, is where the ocean meets the Inferno River. It’s an ideal spot for swimmers to enjoy the river beach as well as the open sea.
As the day draws to a close, the shoreline comes alive. Old boats chug past, carrying fishermen and the day’s catch. A local strolls along the water playing his berimbau, a musical bow with a single string. Visitors sit beside a crackling bonfire, watching sparks soar into the evening sky. There’s an elegance to Boipeba’s laziness.
A few minutes walk from the riverbank and its restaurants is the village of Velha Boipeba. Founded in 1537, this vibrant enclave is made up of narrow, carless streets lined with colourful cottages, as well as shops, restaurants and pousadas. At its heart lies Praça Santo Antônio, a town square, a place where the community come together. Kids play football while locals sell crafts, acarajé, cold beer and fruity cocktails.
Things to do in Boipeba
In Salvador I was told by a taxi driver, “you’ll eat well in Boipeba” and he was right. There are plenty of great places to dine here. Panela de Barro serves hearty Brazilian favourites in a laid-back setting. Flor da Lua whips up superb crêpes. Take the time to walk to the wonderfully deserted Cueira Beach and try the lobster at Guido’s, a popular destination with visitors.
Life in Boipeba moves at a glacial pace, which is part of its charm. Nature lovers will feel spoiled here. The island boasts extensive Atlantic forest, sand dunes, salt marshes, idyllic, palm-lined beaches and spectacular reefs teeming with marine life. Boat trips are an ideal way to discover the island’s many hidden treasures, but if you have the time, you can traverse much of the island on foot.
And of course, if you just need some down time, there are plenty of places where you can relax with a cool drink and watch the world go by… slowly.
How to get to Boipeba
Our recommendation is to fly into Salvador, and then make your way south along the coast. Take the catamaran from Salvador’s Terminal Marítimo, which is just next door to the Mercado Modelo at the bottom of the Elevador Lacerda, an area called Cidade Baixa. Take the catamaran over to Morro de São Paulo, which departs 9am and 2pm daily and costs around R$151. (Keep in mind that the waters can be quite choppy, even in summer, so this may not be a good option if you’re likely to get seasick!) Enjoy a few nights in Morro de São Paulo, then continue your journey by boat to Boipeba, which leaves 9.30am. Boats usually stop for lunch on the way, where you can enjoy fresh seafood and ice-cold beer on a floating restaurant on the river. Staff in your pousada can help you make your bookings.
However, if you want to skip Morro de São Paulo, here are some other ways to arrive.
From Salvador – by plane
Small planes which fit six passengers fly three times a day from Salvador airport to Boipeba. This is the fastest way, and the journey takes about 30 minutes and offers incredible coastal views along the way. Sometimes, the plane may need to fly to Morro de São Paulo and the rest of the journey is completed by car. Cost is R$800 per person each way. (Prices correct as of Nov 2023.)
From Salvador – by bus and boat
Visit the São Joaquim ferry terminal in Salvador. Take a ferry-boat across Baía de Todos os Santos (All Saints Bay), which will arrive at Bom Despacho terminal on Itaparica Island. From there you’ll be able to connect to buses which will travel south along the coast to Valenca. The bus journey takes about two hours. From Valenca, you can take a speedboat over to Boipeba island, which will cost about R$60.
Alternatively, you can go to Salvador’s Terminal Marítimo, which is just next door to Mercado Modelo, just at the bottom of the Elevador Lacerda. Take a boat to Mar Grande on the Itaparica Island. This is a quicker journey across the bay and only takes about half an hour. Once in Mar Grande, take a van to Nazaré and then a bus to Valença. Here you can find a boat to take you to Boipeba island.
From Salvador – by car
Take your car across the Baía de Todos os Santos using the ferry-boat, from São Joaquim to Bom Despacho on Itaparica island. Once you reach Valença, take a boat to Boipeba from the pier (map below).
Alternatively, drive to Torrinha, which is a small village, located closer to Boipeba. As you drive south, look out for a left turn to Cairu, which is just after Nilo Peçanha. Drive a further 12km, then turn right into an unsealed road. After 7km you will reach Torrinha. There is secure covered parking available. From here, you can take speedboats over to Boipeba (map below).
Last updated: 25 Nov 2023