Sophisticated pousadas, restaurants and bars, idyllic beaches and an intoxicatingly slow pace of life. Welcome to Trancoso, Bahia.
This elegant little beachside town didn’t even have electricity until 1986, not that you’d ever know it today. Trancoso was once so isolated that Brazil changed its currency and the locals didn’t even realise.
Of course, this is all part of Trancoso’s charm. Over the years, Trancoso has managed to swiftly evolve from hippy hideaway to sophisticated sanctuary, while still retaining its authentic small town feel. Perhaps this is what attracts trendsetters and celebs to its sunny A-list shores? Beyoncé, Leonardo di Caprio, Gisele Bündchen and Naomi Campbell have all spent time holidaying here, and CNN journalist Anderson Cooper is one of Trancoso’s best known residents. He owns an idyllic home on the quadrado, the verdant village square which anchors this relaxed town (below).
“I’ve worked in 70 countries and travelled to even more,” said Cooper in a 2017 interview with Architectural Digest. “I’ve never seen anything like Trancoso. It’s a real place, not a Potemkin village for tourists.”
We can’t argue with him. Trancoso does what Brazil does best. It seamlessly blends the rustic with the chic, it blurs the lines between indoors and outdoors. It revels in the details. Trancoso is sure to leave an indelible mark on you as you pass through, so much so, you may just decide to stay.
What makes Trancoso special?
On the surface, Trancoso feels like a forgotten enclave, harking back to simpler times. It’s seemingly ramshackle little houses in the quadrado hide sophisticated luxury behind their front doors. That’s the perfect metaphor for the town as a whole – Trancoso feels simple, but it’s far from it. Its restaurants, bars and pousadas are some of the best you’ll find in all of Brazil – and some have the price tag to go with it!
Trancoso’s many beaches offer superb surfing, as well as natural rock pools and reefs. Rio da Barra is ideal if you’re keen to get away from the crowds. Slow down and make a day of it – relax, swim, enjoy a delicious lunch at the restaurant. If you’re up for an adventure, you can brave the bumpy roads to reach Praia do Espelho. It’s best to go at low tide when the beach feels wider, and you’re able to explore the reef and natural pools. You may even spot some tropical fish while you’re swimming too. Coqueiros beach is a short walk from the quadrado. It’s ideal for swimming and you may even be able to catch some crabs at low tide.
When to visit?
Like many of Brazil’s beach destinations, peak tourist season is from December to February. This is when the weather is warmest and when there are plenty of reasons to celebrate, including Christmas, New Year’s Eve and of course, Carnaval.
Even during the winter months, it is possible to swim in the sea in Trancoso, and you’ll find the town quieter. Depending on the kind of holiday you like, this could be exactly what you’re looking for! Winter days in Trancoso are still sunny. There is more rainfall at this time of year, but the showers usually arrive at night.
How to get to Trancoso?
Trancoso’s nearest airport is Porto Seguro, which is well connected to Brazil’s major cities, including São Paulo, Belo Horizonte, Salvador and Rio de Janeiro. LATAM, Gol and Azul all fly here.
The airport is a 1 hour and 25 minute drive north from Trancoso. This journey also involves a short river crossing by ferry, which connects Porto Seguro with Arraial D’Ajuda (map below). You can rent a car at the airport when you arrive – we recommend Localiza. Or you can organise an airport transfer through your pousada before you touch down.
If you’re looking to arrive in style, Terravista Golf Course has an airport and can organise private flights. It is about 20 minutes away from the heart of Trancoso.
Last updated: 25 Nov 2023