Salvador, Bahia

Once Brazil’s capital city, Salvador in Bahia was the jewel in the crown for the Portuguese Empire. As a major port for Brazil’s sugarcane and slave trade, it was the country’s most important city for three centuries. Today some neighbourhoods feel totally forgotten, while others have never felt more alive.

What makes Salvador special?

My taxi from the airport speeds into town, past so many startling contrasts – rich and poor, old and new, the natural and the man made. One moment, lavish, shiny apartments flash by; the next, it’s cracked pavements and make-shift houses. Traffic lights bring us to a sudden stop and the driver starts drumming his hands on the steering wheel, singing along to a song only he can hear. It’s something I notice again and again in Salvador – the locals here seem to have music in their veins.

I arrive in Pelourinho, an area named after a whipping post which slaves were once tied to and punished. Today it’s a charming, energetic neighbourhood brimming with 17th and 18th century architecture, open plazas and churches laden with gold. Pelourinho’s streets form a sometimes steep cobblestoned maze, winding past bars, restaurants and colourful shop-fronts selling clothing, handmade crafts and souvenirs. Women in traditional Bahian dress – colourful starched skirts and turban-style headdresses – greet passersby. The thunder of street drummers ring out in the distance. These are the streets where Michael Jackson once filmed the video for ‘They Don’t Care About Us’. A tribute to the late pop star still stands as a reminder.

Things to do in Salvador

Nearby is the Lacerda Elevator (above) – arguably the city’s most famous landmark. This art deco elevator is 72 metres tall and whisks you from Cidade Alta down to Comércio in only 30 seconds, providing sweeping views across the achingly beautiful Baía de Todos-os-Santos along the way. The top of the elevator is an ideal spot to watch the sunset; down below the sketchy streets and the souvenirs and handmade trinkets of Mercado Modelo await.

Another famous landmark is the 18th century Nosso Senhor do Bonfim Church (below), which lies just a few kilometres north of Comércio. It’s famous for its coloured ribbons which flutter hopefully in the breeze, tied onto the front fences by people in search of a miracle. This church’s supposed healing powers make it a popular shrine. Inside lies ‘the room of miracles’ (above), a rather haunting place filled with wax casts of body parts that people either want healed, or claim have been cured by God already. The walls are plastered with photos of people and slips of paper thanking God for his help. The church’s ribbons can be found all over the city and are icons of Salvador and Bahia as a whole.

Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra, on the city’s most south-western point, is home to South America’s oldest lighthouse. It offers striking views across the bay and is another popular sunset spot. The maritime museum’s exhibition celebrates the history, anthropology, geography and culture of Salvador’s immense bay. On display are coins, stamps, bottles and war materials that had once been submerged for some 300 years.

Where to swim in Salvador

If you’re in the mood for swimming, and perhaps a few drinks in a lively bar afterwards, visit Porto da Barra (above). This west-facing beach has calm, warm waters and sublime sunset views – best enjoyed from one of the area’s relaxing watering holes.

If you’re looking for surf beaches, explore the south-eastern coastline of the city, in particular Rio Vermelho, Pituba, Itapuã, Boca do Rio, Piata, Flamengo – the list goes on.

Where is Salvador?

Our favourite neighbourhoods in Salvador

Pelourinho – an absolute must for history buffs. Meander around the cobblestoned laneways and enjoy the area’s many restaurants and bars. Keep in mind that this is the city’s main tourist area, so watch out for people trying to sell you souvenirs, trinkets and tours that you’re not interested in.

Rio Vermelho – if you’re keen to get a taste of Salvador’s bohemian side, this is the place to go. From Thursdays to Sundays its streets have a Carnival-like vibe, thanks to DJs and the lively crowds they attract. There are plenty of cool places to eat and drink. Sip a cocktail or two at the trendy Chupito Bar. Boteco do França serves excellent Brazilian food in their outdoor courtyard. Tuck into the mouth-watering pizza at Companhia da Pizza. Or if you’re in the mood for something more upscale, sample the superb Asian fusion menu at Takê.

With its coconut palm trees and white sands, Itapuã beach is an ideal spot to take a stroll. The well-known song ‘Tarde em Itapuã’ lures curious visitors out to this laid-back neighbourhood. The delicious scent of acarajé – a spicy snack made from fried beans – wafts from the kiosks. In the evening, vibrant Villa Bahiana is a buzzy spot to unwind with friends.

A perfect jumping off point for…

Salvador is the ideal spot to fly into, then just leisurely make your way south along the coast. Highlights along the way:

Morro de São Paulo: a chic island buzzing with international visitors
Boipeba: a deliciously sleepy island with the ocean on one side and a river on the other, which deftly walks the line between idyllic paradise and buzzing hub of restaurants, bars and boutique hotels
Península de Maraú: with the lively village of Barra Grande at its tip, this thin strip of land is teeming with gorgeous pousadas, stylish restaurants and superb stretches of beach
Itacaré: this bustling town has it all – tropical forest, excellent surf beaches, rivers and waterfalls
Trancoso: perched high on a hill, this once sleepy hippy village has grown to become one of Brazil’s most sought-after beach towns

Staying safe in Salvador

Salvador is an incredible city, blessed with bright blue skies, sandy shores and intriguing historic landmarks. However, the city is not without its problems, like the poverty that comes with being surrounded by favela communities. Don’t let that scare you off – just be a bit street smart and you’ll be fine. Here are some tips to keep you safe:

Dress down – do as the locals do – avoid expensive clothes and accessories. Don’t carry a bag. Consider using a disposable camera. Leave the iPhone at the hotel.
Don’t use cash machines on the street or after dark. Only carry the cash you think you’ll need for the day. Make use of hotel safes.
After dark take taxis, don’t walk on the beach and follow your instincts. Download Uber to your phone.
Ask your hotel concierge about local tips and areas to avoid. Don’t take valuables to the beach.
If you are robbed, slowly hand over your goods without reacting. Report any crimes to the tourist police.

Brazil : Beyond Rio