This is where my love affair with Brazil first began. Jericoacoara is a windswept paradise, tucked away from the rest of the world. It’s surrounded by sand dunes and brimming with chic pousadas, superb restaurants and the occasion wandering mule.
What makes Jericoacoara special?
I’m perched on top of the aptly named ‘sunset dune’ gazing out to sea. To my right, a cluster of restaurants and bars shaded by palm trees; to my left, a vast expanse of sand dunes stretches to the horizon. The sun is about to sink into the ocean, and the townspeople have climbed the dune to watch, as they do every day. Some entrepreneurial young boys have pushed a cart to the top and are making caipirinhas for the crowd. People are drumming and laughing, others are doing backflips and capoeira. A donkey casually meanders along, oblivious to the view. Welcome to Jericoacoara – that’s jeddy-kwa-kwa-da.
Jericoacoara, also known as Jeri, sits almost exactly on the equator, on the most northern tip of Ceará. It boasts ocean views facing both east and west, so you watch the sun both rise and set over the sea.
Once a modest fishing village, the streets of this now cosmopolitan oasis are all made from sand, which means virtually no traffic and no need for shoes. There is actually a law against street lights, leaving you to bask in the light from the moon, stars and the occasional firefly. The village is unreachable by car, yet life here is comfortable and sophisticated, with vibrant bars, restaurants and boutique hotels. Look one way and you’re in the Sahara Desert, look the other way and it’s a tropical island.
Things to do in Jericoacoara
Sometimes it feels like Jeri’s inhabitants have perfected the art of doing nothing. This relaxed pace can take some getting used to, although a chilled caipirinha usually helps. The heat of the day can be fierce, the evenings are often warm and breezy, perfect for long, relaxed meals by candlelight.
Dominated by sand, Jeri is surrounded by beaches and dunes and in parts offers views not unlike Lençóis Maranhenses. Buggies and quad-bike tours are readily available from the town square. If you get an opportunity, try to experience the dunes on horseback – their hooves are efficient at negotiating the soft sand, and the absence of engine noise leaves you feeling on top of the world.
During the day, Jeri is all about boutique shopping, laid-back bars, restaurants and of course, windsports. The skies are filled with kitesurfers’ sails, and there are many kite schools offering lessons for the daring.
At night the town transforms and the streets fill with people. Samba and cool breezes drift through the streets as locals sell handcrafted jewellery, clothes and delicious snacks.
Jericoacoara’s windswept beaches are ideal for kitesurfers. Those who want to swim should jump onto a quad-bike or dune buggy tour out to one of the nearby lagoons, like Lagoa Azul (above) or Lagoa Paraíso. Here you’ll find tranquil waters with restaurants and bars offering shade, refreshment and in some cases, tables half-perched in the water – the best of both worlds!
The sad recent news from this part of the world is that the famous Sunset Dune is diminishing, due to a combination of tourists climbing it each day, and the changing winds. These days, the dune is not much more than a modest mound of sand. It’s a reminder that this landscape is always in flux. The area is still surrounded by sand dunes and another one will eventually come along to another part of the beach to take its place.
Where to eat in Jericoacoara?
In Jericoacoara, you are spoiled for choice. You can stay here for weeks and never need to eat in the same place twice.
Be sure to try the escondidinho at Na Casa Dela, a glorious open-air restaurant with sand beneath your feet and fairy lights hanging from the trees (pictured below).
Jeri’s sands don’t stop at the front door at Sabor da Terra. This cheerful restaurant serves traditional Brazilian fare in hearty portions. Most meals are big enough for two and modestly priced.
Araxá serves the best woodfired pizza in town and is tucked away in a relatively tranquil corner of town (pictured below).
The modern, varied menu at Pimenta Verde keeps this rustic-chic corner-restaurant humming.
Tamarindo, like many bars and restaurants in Jeri, blurs the line between inside and outside, with an outdoor kitchen, sandy floors and tables under the stars – all nestled beneath a giant tamarind tree.
How to get to Jericoacoara
By car – from Fortaleza
Cars will not reach all the way to Jericoacoara, so you will need to take the CE-085 highway to Jijoca and park in the Estacionamento Central long-term car park. You can then either take a 4WD jeep across the dunes to Jericoacoara. Or you can ride in the jardineira, which is an open-air bus.
If you are driving a 4WD yourself, we recommend that you don’t drive all the way to Jericoacoara. There is very little signage and the route changes according to wind and weather. This one is best left for people who know the track well.
By bus – from Fortaleza
Expresso Guanabara operate multiple buses daily from Fortaleza to Jijoca. They depart from Fortaleza Rodoviária (bus station) for around R$110-R$144 one way. These buses take almost seven hours, and connect with jardineiras (open-air buses) to take you off-road to Jericoacoara. It’s all part of the adventure!
Prefer a private transfer from Jijoca to Jericoacoara? You can normally find drivers waiting for you during the day once you alight from the bus. However, the chances of drivers waiting there diminishes if you are travelling later at night. We recommend contacting your pousada, so they can help ensure you have a transfer organised in advance.
By plane
Part of Jericoacoara’s magic is that it is rather remote and hidden. However, an airport has been built in this region in recent years, opening it up to more visitors. Jericoacoara airport (above) is 32km away from the village.
- LATAM Airlines fly to/from Jericoacoara directly from São Paulo Guarulhos each day.
- Azul Airlines fly to/from Jericoacoara via Belo Horizonte, São Luis and Fortaleza airports throughout the week.
- Gol Airlines fly to/from Jericoacoara directly to São Paulo Guarulhos on several days during the week.
More services are being added. There is debate around whether facilities at the airport should be expanded to accommodate international flights.
By helicopter – from Fortaleza
The fastest and the most convenient way to arrive in Jericoacoara, but also the most expensive. It’s approximately R$16,500 to rent a helicopter for the day and each can take four passengers. The journey takes 50 minutes along the west coast of Ceará and gives you a birds eye view of some of the state’s untouched stretches of coastline.
Last updated: 25 Nov 2023
Photo: Jade Queiroz – MTUR