Tucked away in Minas Gerais, less than two hours’ drive from the skyscrapers of Belo Horizonte, lies Ouro Preto; an elegant huddle of cobbled streets teeming with Baroque architecture, grand squares, fountains and bridges. A UNESCO World Heritage site, this 17th-century town rises like a mirage out of the rolling Serra do Espinhaço mountains. It gives a flavour of Brazil’s glory days during the gold rush of the 18th century.
What makes Ouro Preto special?
This picturesque town beautifully blends Brazil’s unique history with nature. There are many opportunities to stop and take in the views. Such moments lend themselves well to contemplating the meaning of life and your place in the world. Rolling hills and steep, cobbled streets mean you’ll be active all day as you explore the sprawling town. However, the beauty waiting around each bend in the road will help you forget about your tired feet.
Ornate churches dripping with gold leaf, buzzing restaurants dishing up hearty stews, pizzas and fish, open-air arts and crafts fairs, museums exploring the gold rush and how slaves broke their backs to fill the pockets of the Portuguese – these are some of the wonderful experiences waiting for you in Ouro Preto.
Things to do in Ouro Preto
Mirante Morro de São Sebastião – it’s a challenging, steep walk up Rua Henrique Goerceix, but this lookout promises some of the best views in Ouro Preto.
Saint Francis of Assisi church (above) – with its imposing green doors and twin spires, this 1700s Rococo church offers sweeping views across the valley and was designed by the famed Brazilian architect and sculptor Antônio Francisco Lisboa, more commonly known as Aleijadinho. The vast mural on the church’s timber roof took nine years for the artist Manuel da Costa Ataide to paint.
Feira do Largo de Coimbra (below) – held in front of the Saint Francis of Assisi church, this outdoor market sells handcrafted souvenirs made from locally sourced soapstone (pedra sabão). Here you’ll find ornate, colourful tableware, ashtrays, jewellery boxes and vases.
Praça Tiradentes (below) – Nestled in the heart of the town, this grand square is named after Tiradentes, a Brazilian icon who led the unsuccessful revolution for independence known as the Inconfidência Mineira. For his crime against the Portuguese colonists, he was ultimately publicly hanged, his body cut into pieces and his head impaled on a pole and exhibited in the square. Today, he’s considered a hero in Brazil, emblematic of the struggle for independence. The square is now home to the Inconfidência Museum, and is flanked by boutique shops and restaurants.
Basílica Nossa Senhora do Pilar – built in the late 1600s, this Catholic Church is very well-preserved. It’s said that some 400kg of gold leaf and silver powder were used to decorate its grand interiors (below), which are home to many intricately carved angels and cherubs.
Teatro Municipal de Ouro Preto – Built in 1769, this elegant theatre is the oldest in the Americas, and is said to be the first theatre in Brazil to permit women performers on stage.
Exploring the surrounding region
Mina du Veloso – tour guides (some of whom speak English) can take you on a tour to explore 400 metres of tunnels in this former gold mine and share tales about the gold rush, the methods for extracting gold and the grim lives of the African slaves who toiled there.
Itacolomi State Park – nature lovers will enjoy exploring this mountainous region, which offers plenty of swimming holes. Be sure to take a dip in the Valentines Waterfall (Cachoeira dos Namorados) and the shimmering waters of Represa do Custódio, a dam surrounded by forested hills. Make the hike from the visitors centre up to Itacolomi Peak (Pico de Itacolomi), the highest point in the region. When it’s not swathed in cloud, the panoramic views are incredible. It’s about a 4-hour, 14km round trip.
Minas da Passagem – only a 15-minute drive, or a short train ride away from Ouro Preto lies the Minas de Passagem gold mine. It first opened in 1719 and remains the largest, publicly accessible gold mine in the world. A rattly old cable car takes you into the mines, where you can explore part of the 30kms of tunnels. Inside the mine there’s also a crystal clear, blue lake, where you can swim or scuba dive. An ideal day trip!
How to get to Ouro Preto
By plane
There is no airport in Ouro Preto – the nearest airport is Confins Airport in Belo Horizonte. A taxi from the airport costs around R$350 – $500. Alternatively, you can take a bus to Ouro Preto. You’ll need to head into Belo Horizonte city first and take a bus from there.
By car:
From the airport, you can rent a car from Localiza and then make your way to Ouro Preto. As the airport is north of Belo Horizonte, you’ll need to head south. Skirt your way around the city via the BR-381 and BR-040. Then take the BR-356 (Rodovia dos Inconfidentes) further south towards Ouro Preto.
By bus:
Each day, Pássaro Verde buses depart on the hour from Belo Horizonte Rodoviária (bus station) to Ouro Preto between 6am and midnight. Journeys take just under 2 hours and tickets cost R$53.17 (as of Nov 2023).
Buses returning to Belo Horizonte operate hourly each day between 5am and 9.20pm (9pm Sundays), with tickets costing R$48.30.
Last updated: 26 Nov 2023
Photo: Pedro Vilela/MTur