At the foot of the São José mountain range, around three hours drive from Ouro Preto, you’ll find the charming colonial town of Tiradentes. Once a mining camp back in the 18th century, this town lay in total isolation for many decades. Once the gold rush was over, the lifeblood of the town slowed to a trickle. It wasn’t until the 1970s when tourism started to put this well-preserved little slice of Brazilian history back on the map. Now, Tiradentes is a must-see for visitors to the region.
While it may not boast the grandeur of Ouro Preto, this inviting little town certainly has its own claims to fame, namely its superb restaurants and annual food festival, which takes place in August.
This quaint town is best explored during the week, when its steep stone streets aren’t swamped with tourists. Expect bustling boutique stores, colonial churches and floral gardens against a backdrop of forested hills – plus a horse-drawn carriage or two!
Top things to do in Tiradentes
Church of San Antonio (below) – built in the 18th century, this grand church is visible from almost every corner of Tiradentes. Some 482kgs of gold were used decorating the church’s interior. It’s another church built by the sculptor Antonio Francisco Lisboa, also known as Aleijadinho, considered one of Brazil’s most important Baroque artists. The church is home to an organ which was brought over from Portugal in 1788.
Largo das Forras – this is Tiradentes’ town square, where you’ll find the City Hall as well as several craft stores, restaurants and pousadas. Interestingly, this is the square where slaves celebrated the abolition of slavery back in 1888.
Chafariz de São José (Fountain of St. Joseph) (pictured above) – built in 1749, this fountain is crumbling around the edges and feels a little forlorn. It’s surrounded by grass and trees, ideal for a picnic or for escaping the heat. It has three sections – one for drinking, one where the horses can take a sip and another for washing clothes.
Maria Fumaça Trem (Smoking Mary Steam Train) (pictured below) – inaugurated in 1881, this vintage steam train whisks you away to the nearby town of São João del Rei, winding through the Serra de São José mountains along the way. The train only runs Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. Adult tickets cost R$43 one way, R$86 round trip, pensioner, student and youth concession (aged 6 – 12 years) – R$43 one way, R$86 round trip. Children aged under 6 are free – bring their birth certificate with you to prove their date of birth.
Cachoeira do Mangue (Mango Waterfall) – Take this well-posted, sometimes steep, walking trail to this shaded waterfall with a natural pool for swimming. The trail (Trilha do Mangue) starts at the end of Rua Frei Veloso, in Pacu neighborhood. View the start of the walking trail in Google maps.
How to get to Tiradentes
By plane
There is no airport in Tiradentes – the nearest airport is Confins Airport in Belo Horizonte. You can rent a car from the airport from Localiza. Directions below.
By bus:
Alternatively, you can take a bus to Tiradentes. However, you’ll need to head into Belo Horizonte city first. The first bus with Viação Setelagoano takes you to Barbacena (R$80), then a second bus with Transur continues on to Tiradentes, or nearby São João del Rei. Keep in mind the second leg of that bus journey isn’t a daily service. The total journey takes about 6 and a half hours, including the waiting time between buses.
By car:
From the airport, you can rent a car from Localiza and then make your way to Tiradentes. As the airport is north of Belo Horizonte, you’ll need to head south. Skirt your way around the city via the BR-381 and BR-040. Then take the BR-383 further south towards São João del Rei and Tiradentes (map below).
Last updated: 26 Nov 2023
Photo: Pedro Vilela/MTur