Florianópolis, also known as Floripa, is the second largest city in Santa Catarina. It may be the state’s capital city, but its laid-back vibe, forested mountains and inviting beaches give it much more of a holiday resort town feel. Floripa is very popular with international visitors, particularly during high season (December – February each year). During summer, this island’s sunny shores are quite literally heaving with guests. For the residents, it’s easy to see why they’ve picked this city. As far as urban lifestyles go in Brazil, Florianópolis is one of the best.
Things to do in Florianópolis
We recommend hiring a car while you’re in Florianópolis. It may be an island but it’s certainly not small. To drive from the north to the south would take you at least an hour and a half. While there is a comprehensive bus network, it can be a slow way to get around town. Quite frankly, some of the best parts of the island are the hardest ones to get to.
Why not start the day with brunch in trendy Lagoa da Conceição? Grab a latte or an açaí bowl at Café Cultura and take a sunny stroll around the lake.
Feel like some retail therapy? There are plenty of shopping centres to explore, Iguatemi being one of the city’s finest. If it’s artisan crafts or fresh food you’re after, head to Centro and explore the Mercado Público (below). Built around a grand colonial building, this market has a vibrant central courtyard, ideal for grabbing a bite to eat and listening to some live music. The hippy fair in Santo António de Lisboa is also worth checking out. Afterwards, there are plenty of great waterside restaurants to explore. Or you can jump in the car and head up to nearby Sambaqui.
When the sun sets, there are plenty of excellent dinner options in Floripa. If you’re in the mood for Thai cuisine, May is a romantic offering with water views, tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood. For lovers of Indian food, Spice Garden is some of the best you’ll find in the region. Ataliba is an upscale take on the traditional Brazilian churrascaria (steakhouse). If you can’t decide, why not head over to the mainland and explore the neighbourhood of Coqueiros. This waterside region has developed into a real culinary hotspot, offering some lively bars and great dining options. Mercadoteca is a trendy hangout for craft beer and trendy bites.
Floripa’s nightlife
When it comes to nightspots, there are too many to list here. Florianópolis is teeming with buzzing bars – some with outdoor tables, some by the water, some downtown, some with live music, some with thumping dance tracks. If you’re looking for places to hang out after hours, Lagoa da Conceição is popular with the younger crowd, while many of the city’s nightclubs can be found in upscale Jurerê Internacional. Lovers of samba music will adore spending Sunday nights in Sambaqui. Look out for the vibrant little fisherman’s shack, you can’t miss it, you can hear it from miles away. You won’t find tourists in this place – it’s filled with locals all drinking, dancing and living for the moment.
If you’re looking for the city’s gay clubs, we recommend Conca Club with its two rotating dance floors and 1007 for its fun vibe and panoramic bay views from its outdoor deck. If you’re into bears, you’ll feel right at home at Jonas 570, a tiny hole in the wall with great tunes, cheap drinks and a very friendly crowd!
Florianópolis’ best beaches
For beach lovers, there are a few that stand out, each for different reasons. Floripa’s positioning makes it such that the beaches in the north and the east are all pretty great in terms of surf, while those on the west side are better for kids, as they have virtually no waves. The views from the west over to the mainland can be pretty too.
Praia Mole (above) is easily the most popular, due to its proximity to the hotels and hostels of Lagoa da Conceição, which is the most lively neighbourhoods on the island. While you’re at Praia Mole, gay travellers (and their friends) should enjoy a few caipirinhas and a boogie at Bar do Deca, before enjoying a scenic stroll and a dip in the pristine waters of nearby Praia da Galheta, perfect if you’re in the mood for some skinny dipping.
Campeche (below) is another stand out, ideal for surfing and kitesurfing, offering miles of golden sand and a handful of bars and restaurants overlooking the sea. There’s also a small island nearby that you can visit on a day trip, which has walking trails and an unspoilt beach looking back towards Florianópolis.
Praia do Moçambique is perhaps the most remote beach on the island, which is what makes it so special. Tucked away in Floripa’s north-east, it offers miles of golden sand, big waves and total seclusion. There are blue skies, pounding surf and mountains as far as the eye can see.
Jurerê Internacional is where people go to be seen. Think of this neighbourhood as Brazil’s answer to Beverly Hills – flashy, wealthy and exclusive. While the bars and restaurants are pricey, the beach is free – and also priceless. A beautiful place to swim.
Our favourite neighbourhoods in Floripa
Lagoa da Conceição – Popular because it really does have something for everyone. Plenty of bars and restaurants, a nice big lake to walk around and explore, spectacular beaches nearby and great for people watching.
Costa da Lagoa – You can’t reach this area by car, only on-foot through the forest or by taking a boat from Lagoa da Conceição. However, it’s worth the trip. There are plenty of little villages dotted along the coast of the lake with restaurants and little shops to explore. You’ll wish you lived here. And then by the end of the day you’ll realise how annoying it is to get in and out of here and you’ll remember why you don’t.
Sambaqui – We have dogs, so we have a soft spot for any place where they can run around, splash in the water and enjoy nature. This is a great place for that, whether you’re a dog or a human. There are some great bars and restaurants by the water too and some scenic views back towards the mainland. You feel away from it all here.
Ribeirão da Ilha (above) – The south of the island is often overlooked because it is less developed and the traffic bottlenecks can be infuriating. However, there are some gorgeous spots down here where you can just have a few drinks and soak up the surroundings. If you have a car, drive down this way and enjoy the mountains, the fresh air and the occasional colonial church.
Coqueiros – Sure, it’s on the mainland, but if you go anywhere on the mainland, go here. There are plenty of great bars and eateries to explore. A stroll along the beach, with its large, curious boulders, makes for a relaxing afternoon.
How to get to Florianópolis
By plane
Florianópolis has one airport – Hercílio Luz International Airport. It receives domestic flights from major cities across Brazil, including São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Brasilia and Porto Alegre, as well as international flights from Argentina. The airport is a 25-minute taxi ride from downtown Florianópolis. Local buses 186 and 183 operate from the airport taking you to TICEN – the bus interchange in Centro (R$6 per journey). Once at TICEN (or any of the bus interchanges), you can swap onto other buses that will take you to other parts of the island.
Alternatively you can rent a car from Localiza at the airport – we recommend this, as it’s the ideal way to get around the island.
By bus
Florianópolis is well-connected to the rest of Brazil via bus, particularly Foz do Iguaçu, São Paulo and Curitiba. Buses arrive in the Florianópolis Rodoviária (bus station), which is shown in the map below.
Last updated: 26 Nov 2023
Photo: Caio Vilela and Daniel Vianna / MTur