Morro de São Paulo is a forested island with idyllic beaches and bustling laneways filled with bars and shops. Just a short boat ride away from Salvador, this buzzing tourist hotspot delivers fun and luxury embedded within nature.
If you visit Brazil and never leave the big cities, you truly are missing out. Brazil is full of hidden little gems, places that make your troubles melt away. Morro de São Paulo, a vibrant town on the car-free island of Tinharé, is one such place.
Arriving in Morro de São Paulo
Salvador’s dazzling skyline slips from view as our heavy ferry splashes its way towards Itaparica Island, where our bus awaits. In less than 2 hours we’re munching popcorn in the sleepy port of Curral, surrounded by holidaymakers eagerly waiting to board their boat ride to paradise.
Our little boat is laden with smiling people and suitcases, speeding across the bay. We soon dock at the Portaló, an archway made from stone which marks the entrance to the island. Groups of strong, helpful locals with wheelbarrows are on hand to help us take our luggage up the hill into the village.
Exploring the island
Morro de São Paulo is in the north of the island of Tinhare. It’s difficult to get lost here. Not only are the beaches numbered 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th, but there’s also a pathway that snakes past each of them.
This path begins at the charming Nossa Senhora da Luz church, built in 1845. From here, another pathway leads to the lighthouse, which has superb views across the island. Once there, the quickest way down is to take the zip-line, which will sweep you from the cliff tops down to the waters of Primeira Praia (First Beach) below.
By the church is the leafy Plaza de Aureliano Lima, where you’ll find creative locals selling handicrafts of an evening. As you head down towards Primeira Praia, you’ll pass the bustling shops, bars and restaurants of Vila. Beneath entangled power lines, the lights and laughter spill out onto the pavements. It’s a great place to eat, or to just walk about and soak up the vibe.
Exploring the lively beaches of Morro de São Paulo
Primeira Praia’s main thoroughfare is one block back from the beach itself. This helps to make it a fairly relaxing spot to sun yourself or take a dip. If you feel like renting a surfboard or some diving equipment, this is the place to do it. You can take a ride on a banana boat or if you’re feeling lazy, just gaze up towards the lighthouse on the hill and watch the zip-line riders splash in the water.
It’s just be around the corner, but Segunda Praia (Second Beach) feels a world away, particularly of an evening. When the sun is shining it’s a popular spot for volleyball and soccer, but at night it comes alive with chic bars and candlelit restaurants, offering live music and tables on the sand. The atmosphere is great. It’s an ideal place to slip off your shoes, sip a caipirinha and listen to some samba while the waves crash nearby. If you’re looking for nightlife, this is the place to come.
Morro de São Paulo’s more tranquil beaches
Around the corner is Terceira Praia (Third Beach, pictured above), which is a well known spot for diving, thanks to nearby Caitá Island, which is made up of a barrier of coral reefs. You can take a boat ride to the island or make your own way out there in a kayak. From Terceira Praia, boats will take you further south to Boipeba, stopping off along the way at floating shacks serving crabs and oysters.
With so much on offer in the bustling heart of Morro de São Paulo, few visitors make it as far as Quarta Praia (Fourth Beach) and beyond. However there are plenty of reasons to explore this stretch of coastline. You’ll find 8kms of white sands and coconut trees, plus calm waters with natural swimming pools filled with colourful fish. Quinta Praia (Fifth Beach) lies on the other side of a small river and a mangrove swamp. This tranquil 2km stretch of coast is also known as Praia do Encanto and is well worth a look if you feel like getting away from the crowds.
How to get there
From Salvador – by boat
Our recommendation is to take the catamaran from Salvador’s Terminal Marítimo. This is just next door to the Mercado Modelo at the bottom of the Elevador Lacerda. Take the catamaran over to Morro de São Paulo, which departs 9am and 2pm daily and costs around R$151. If you’re prone to seasickness, take some pills with you, as you will be travelling on the open ocean. If the weather is bad, buses replace this service.
From Salvador – by ferry-boat and bus/car
If you’re driving, you can put your car on the ferry-boat at Terminal São Joaquim. This takes you over to Bom Despacho on Itaparica island. From here, follow BA-001 passing through Nazaré until you reach Valença. You can leave your car here and take a boat across (map below).
Travelling by bus? Take the ferry-boat to Bom Despacho and buses to Morro de São Paulo await. They will stop in Valença, where you will take a boat over to the island. Cidade Sol travels from Bom Despacho to Valença daily. The journey takes about 3 hours and costs around R$34-R$49.
Last updated: 25 Nov, 2023