Given that it’s an island with more than 42 idyllic beaches to explore, it’s easy to forget that Florianópolis gets cold during winter time. But despite the nip in the air, this city is a magical place to explore – even better when you do so with wonderful friends.
Back in 2015, Renato and I moved to Florianópolis, where we lived for a year or so. It will always be a special place for us. It’s where we first truly lived together and established our first home. It is the place where we raised our two puppies, Kovax and Piauí. It’s the first place in Brazil I started to put down roots. And of course, along the way I met some truly wonderful people who have gone on to become lifelong friends.
It had been a while since we’d been there, so we couldn’t wait to see how the city had changed. Initial first impressions – the airport has grown and developed, with more shops, another terminal on the way and some snazzy new branding. On our drive into town, our friend Patrícia told us about how the new Mayor was ploughing money into developments around the island (and also how he’d recently been in the news over a scandal to do with organised crime). Ah Brazil, the more things change, the more they stay the same.
Overall, the city we knew and loved was still there, with some shiny new additions, and over the week we spent with Patricia, we saw Florianópolis through her eyes – her secret spots for lunch, her favourite bars and cafés, even a few new beaches we’d never seen before. We were genuinely surprised to see a new side to the city we’d spent so much time in as locals. Here are just a few hidden gems.
Arante – a memorable lunch by the sea
Perched on a spectacular stretch of beach is Arante, a rustic little enclave plating up fresh seafood dishes and caipirinhas muddled and shaken to perfection. Every square inch of the restaurant’s walls and ceiling is covered with handwritten notes, each one overlapping the other, begging to be read by curious diners. It’s a tradition that has lived on since the 1970s, when students from São Paulo and Rio Grande do Sul would come to Pântano do Sul beach for the summer. They’d leave handwritten notes for their friends who were also on their way, to let them know where they were.
This restaurant has been here on the beach since the 1960s, and one gets the impression that they’re not going anywhere. Time seems to stand still here. Fishing boats lay idly on the sand. Birds glide through the air. The tide comes and goes. Even during winter, the beckoning waves beyond our window look incredibly inviting, but the food leaves us feeling more than contented. What a special little place this is.
The hidden treasures of Armação
After lunch, we take a drive back up north, through the village of Armação. Most people who live in Floripa will tell you how beautiful and relaxing the south of the island is, but it’s not always easy to get to because of the traffic. Perhaps that’s why we never ventured down this far when we lived here?
We stopped to take a walk around the shore, strolling up Ponta das Campanhas where we find a rope swing overlooking Praia do Matadeiro. It’s the ideal spot for a picnic, green grass against a backdrop of forested mountains, rolling surf and blue sky.
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Best Florianópolis spots for food or a nightcap
If you’re looking for trendy cocktail bars, we particularly liked the moscow mules at Duplex 48 in Centro. They even come with thoughtful little notes attached, just like a fortune cookie, only better. Grab a seat on the outdoor verandah upstairs.
Across town in Santa Monica is the nifty bar Rabodigalo, which is basically the literal Portuguese translation of the word ‘cocktail’ – as in ‘tail of the cockerel’. Expect top shelf cocktails, tasty bites and Italian desserts, live music and a bustling crowd – this place is popular! And it’s easy to see why.
After you’ve worked up an appetite, Soul Brothers make the most decadent burgers you’ll find on the island. Freshly baked bread, vegan and veggie options and thick, meaty portions make this burger joint a must! (You can thank us later.)
Mercadoteca is a vibrant new foodie destination tucked away in Saco Grande. This trendy spot feels like a food market you’d find in London. It has communal tables, superb wine, a buzzing vibe and a diverse range of cuisines, from Thai to Mexican and Italian gelato.
Great bakeries and cafés in Florianópolis
Café Cultura – in the few years we’d been gone, this local café brand has gone from strength to strength, opening up several branches across the island. Their main hub in Lagoa da Conceição doubles as a co-working space. Soaring ceilings, superb espresso and rich desserts make this one of the best cafés in town.
O Padeiro de Sevilha – freshly baked breads, inviting desserts, tasty sandwiches and outdoor seating in the sunshine – what’s not to like? If you’re fussy about your bread, this is the place to come.
Like Rio de Janeiro, Florianópolis is a city that’s blessed with intoxicating views and enchanting nature in every direction. Each morning, our friend Patricia wakes up to water views. She feeds bananas to the monkeys who play in the trees outside her window. That’s one thing I love about Brazil – its abundant nature, even in its major cities. Fruit growing on the trees, lush landscapes, monkeys and hummingbirds flittering about. We left Floripa feeling restored, having fallen in love with this city all over again. We can’t wait to go back!
Explore our recommended places to stay while in Florianópolis. Learn more about this wonderful city in our Florianópolis city guide.
